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在意大利,围绕着食物有一些不成文的规定是必须要遵守的,例如,意大利人在上午11点之后不喝卡布奇诺咖啡,肉酱面永远不会出现在意大利人的餐桌上,以及意大利披萨上绝对不可以加菠萝!
But 2024 might just be the year that pineapple pizza cracks Italy, thanks to Gino Sorbillo, the renowned Naples pizzaiolo (pizza maestro) who has added the dreaded “ananas” to his menu in Via dei Tribunali, the best known pizza street in the world capital of pizza.
但2024年有些规矩要被打破了,这要归功于知名那不勒斯披萨大师吉诺·索比略。索比略在世界披萨之都最著名的披萨街Via dei Tribunali的菜单上增加了令意大利人“望而却步”的菠萝披萨。
Sorbillo’s creation, called “Margherita con Ananas” costs 7 euros ($7.70). But this isn’t your regular Hawaiian: it is a pizza bianca, denuded of its tomato layer, sprinkled with no fewer than three types of cheese, with the pineapple cooked twice for a caramelized feel.
索比略制作的"Margherita con Ananas"披萨售价7欧元。这可不是普通的夏威夷披萨:这款披萨去掉了番茄层,撒上至少三种芝士,而且菠萝经过两次烹饪,带有焦糖感。
索比略的菠萝披萨制作方法
The pineapple is prebaked in the oven and then cooled. Then he adds smoked provola (a local cow milk cheese from Campania), extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil, before popping the pizza in his woodfired oven.
菠萝在烤箱里预烤,然后冷却。然后,加入烟熏Provola(坎帕尼亚当地的牛奶奶酪),特级初榨橄榄油和新鲜罗勒,将披萨放入木柴烤箱。
As it comes out of the oven, he scatters “micro shavings” of two types of smoked cacioricotta cheese around the crust: one from Sardinian goats, and another from buffalos in the nearby Cilento area.
当披萨出炉时,会在饼皮上撒上两种熏干酪的“碎屑”:一种撒丁岛山羊干酪,另一种奇伦托水牛干酪。
“消除食物偏见”
Sorbillo, a third-generation pizzaiolo, told CNN that he created it to “combat food prejudice.”
作为传承三代的披萨大师,索比略告诉美国有线电视新闻网(CNN),制作这款菠萝披萨是为了"消除食物偏见"。
“Sadly people follow the crowd and condition themselves according to other people’s views, or what they hear,” he said.
索比略说:"可悲的是,人们往往随大流,让别人的观点影响自己。”
“I’ve noticed in the last few years that lots of people were condemning ingredients or ways of preparing food purely because in the past most people didn’t know them, so I wanted to put these disputed ingredients – that are treated like they’re poison – onto a Neapolitan pizza, making them tasty.”
"我发现,在过去几年里,很多人都在抨击某些食材或烹饪食物的方法,纯粹是因为过去大多数人都不了解它们,所以我想把这些有争议的、被人们视如毒药的食材放到那不勒斯披萨上,让它们变得美味。”
菠萝披萨让意大利人不淡定了
Tasty or not, pineapple on pizza is anathema to most Italians, and his pizza – which he launched on social media this week – hasn’t gone down well with many. It has, Sorbillo said, started “uproar” with insults on social media, and his pizza even being discussed on national TV.
当索比略本周在社交媒体上晒出这款披萨后,并不怎么受欢迎。索比略说,社交媒体上的攻击引发了“轩然大波”,他的披萨甚至登上了电视台。
One person wrote on X: 'Pineapple on pizza is horrible.'
一位网友在X上写道:“披萨上的菠萝太可怕了。”
But another said: 'I'm actually starting to love pineapples on pizza.'
但另一位网友表示:“我真的开始喜欢披萨上的菠萝了。”
A third wrote: 'Putting pineapple on pizza is like putting banana in spaghetti.'
还有人称:“把菠萝放在披萨上就像把香蕉放在意大利面里。”
But Sorbillo says that those who’ve been curious enough to try it have been favorable.
但索比略说,那些因为好奇而尝试过的人都很喜欢。
“Before I launched it on social media, I put it on the menu without saying anything for a couple of weeks, and lots of people ordered it, even Neapolitans,” he said.
“在我发布社交媒体之前,这款披萨已经在菜单上几个星期了。很多人都点了它,甚至是那不勒斯本地人。”
“But Italy is split in half about it. And not just Italy. There’s a load of arguments that have opened up about it. I think people in general are not curious. They are mistrustful of anything different.”
“但意大利对此一分为二。不仅仅是意大利。有很多关于菠萝披萨的讨论。我认为人们普遍缺乏好奇。他们不信任任何不一样的东西。”
Barbara Politi, a food journalist who rushed straight to Naples to try it, was positive.
美食记者芭芭拉直接赶往那不勒斯尝试,结果令她很欣喜。
“It’s good, fresh, I’m in favor of it,” she said. “Did you know that pineapple has been part of Europe’s food culture since Christopher Columbus tasted it in Guadeloupe in 1493 and brought it back?
“这款披萨很不错,味道新鲜,我很喜欢。你知道吗,自从1493年哥伦布在瓜德罗普品尝菠萝并将其带回欧洲以来,菠萝一直是欧洲饮食文化的一部分。”
英文来源:CNN
编辑:董静
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